Experimental Study of Undertow and Turbulence Intensity Under Irregular Waves in the Surf Zone
Experiments are performed in a two-dimensional wave tank with a sloping beach. Irregular waves are generated and the water particle velocity is measured in the surf zone with a laser Doppler...
Physical Modelling of Multidirectional Waves
A sixty-segment wave generator has been used since 1985 at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory of the National Research Council (NRC) of Canada to generate multidirectional waves, and study...
A Spectral Wave Model for the Coastal Zone
Spectral wave models that represent the evolution of the waves on a grid superior in several respects to conventional wave ray models. Spectral models on a grid have been developed for...
Shoaling of Wave Spectra in Front of Reflective Structures
Breakwater and jetty design depend in part on the incident significant wave height expected to reach the structure. This height is not always known and must be estimated from a deepwater...
Waves Propagating on an Adverse Jet
A laboratory investigated was conducted of the propagation of waves on an adverse three-dimensional jet. The problem which was simulated was the ebb-tide flow from a tidal inlet into a...
The Time Dependent Ray Method for Calculation of Wave Transformation on Water of Varying Depth and Current
This focuses on an aspect of the numerical calculation of wave refraction using the ray tracing or the semi-Lagrangian approach. the conventional ray method for steady state depth and...
Wave Run-Up and Reflection on a Permeable Sea Wall
The swash oscillation on a sloping seawall made of step-shaped concrete blocks, waves and water particle velocity in front of the seawall were measured. It was inferred that incident waves...
An Offshore Island Wave Sheltering Model
The wave climate along Southern California Coastal area is greatly modified by the existing systems of natural islands shown. As deep water wave approach the nearshore area, they generally...
Evolutionary Fourier Analysis of Wave Data
A new method is presented for analyzing nonstationary water level height time series. The usual assumption of pseudo-stationary intervals is avoided and the wave spectra can be changing...
A New Correction Procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder Data
A new correction procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder (SBWR) wave height and spectral data is described. The method is based on a reassessment of the available frequency response measurements...
Extensive Comparison of Directional Wave Analysis Methods From Gauge Array Data
In order to settle an efficient operational wave gauge array for estimating directional wave spectrum, several directional analysis methods are implemented and compared. These methods...
Nonlinear Effects on Wave Envelope and Phase
The representation of second-order random waves is examined in terms of the effect of second-order nonlinearities on the wave envelope and phase. Theoretical expressions describing the...
Modeling Bottom Friction in Wind-Wave Models
Effects of bottom friction in wind-wave models are investigated, with an emphasis on wave-induced bottom roughnesses (moveable-bed effects). A state-of-the-art bottom friction model is...
Second Order Irregular?Wave Generation in Flumes - Computation of Transfer Functions by an Asymptotic Summation Method
Recently the theory for second order irregular-wave generation (including superharmonics as well as subharmonics) has been rederived for a variety of different types of wave board motion....
Spectral Boussinesq Modelling of Breaking Waves
Random waves passing over a shallow bar are considered, in particular the amplification of bound harmonics in shoaling water, their subsequent release in deepening water, and the role...
Kinematics of Wave Overtopping on Marine Structure
Kinematics of transient wave overtopping on coastal breakwaters has been studied both experimentally and numerically. For the laboratory experiments, solitary waves with moderate wave...
Evolution of Breaking Directional Spectral Waves in the Nearshore Zone
Methods used in parabolic refraction-diffraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions....
The Significance of Hydrodynamic Forces in Coastal Embankment Design
The dynamic forces of sea water and backfill soil acting on coastal embankment are analyzed by using a new finite-difference method. The Euler's equation and continuity equation are used...
ASA.WAVES: An Interactive PC-based Wave Forecasting Tool
An interactive PC-based system for wave refraction-diffraction in coastal regions has been developed, based on a Mild-slope equation finite element wave model. The system includes an embedded...
Joint Probability of Superelevated Water Levels and Wave Heights at Duck, North Carolina
Storm events are typically classified as a percent occurrence or return interval based on their peak storm elevation. The stage is the combination of storm surge, astronomical tide and...
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